A kick out of Route 66

In downtown Flagstaff, we hit our first stretch of -- cue famous song -- Route 66.

We were on it only for a brief spell before it morphed into its replacement, I-40, which cuts through red, flat desert so bleak, empty and wind-blown that the Mars Rover would have fit right in.

Twice, though, we gladly stopped racing trucks and RVs and glimpsed reminders of a time when travellers crossing America actually passed through communities. In Winslow, Route 66 becomes the main drag. I had to stop at the famous corner immortalized by the Eagles in "Take it Easy." Apparently, so many others have felt the same impulse that there's an official sign, gift shop and statue of a unnamed 1970s, Eagles-like dude with a guitar at the intersection.

Holbrook's portion of 66 had more original, if faded, survivors -- garish 1950s motels, diners. The Wigwam Motel -- its sign asked, "Have you slept in a wigwam lately?" -- featured giant teepees for rooms, some of which had vintage cars parked in front for show. The boys decided that the town must have been the inspiration for Radiator Springs in "Cars," based on the Wig Wam and the garage across the street, where a dead ringer for the old tow truck character "Mater" was parked.

Sadly, as in the movie's bypassed town, much of the 66 stretches looked shabby and even seedy. Restaurants sat closed to hungry families. Nobody stayed in motels that seemed perfect places for drug overdoses. Roadside oasises had become faded Americana, interesting only to the curious and nostalgic.